Wool: A Natural Fibre With a Complicated Reputation

Wool: A Natural Fibre With a Complicated Reputation

Wool has wrapped humans in warmth for over 10,000 years. It’s one of the oldest known textile fibres, dating back to when early humans began using the fleeces of domesticated sheep to shield themselves from the cold. Today, wool remains a go-to for coats, jumpers, and tailoring — loved for its breathability, elasticity, and timeless feel.

But for all its natural credentials, wool has become something of a hot topic in recent years. Concerns about animal welfare and environmental impact have made many makers, brands, and consumers pause to ask: Can wool still be considered a sustainable fibre?

The short answer? Yes — but with context. In this post, we’ll explore what wool is, how it’s made, where the challenges lie, and why, despite everything, we still believe wool is one of the most remarkable fibres we work with.

What Is Wool?

Wool is a natural protein fibre obtained from the fleece of sheep. It’s the only fibre of its kind with a naturally crimped, elastic structure that allows it to trap air, stretch, and recover without breaking. Wool fibres range in diameter from 10 to 50 microns, depending on the breed, with fibre length (staple length) between 40 and 115mm.

There are over 200 different breeds of sheep worldwide, producing everything from silky, fine Merino wool to coarse, hardwearing fibres used in tweeds and rugs. Most raw wool is yellowish-white or ivory, but natural colour variants include brown, grey, and black.

A Brief History of Wool

Sheep are one of the earliest domesticated animals, with archaeological evidence showing the use of wool as far back as 10,000 years. By 1900 BC, Britain had become a hub for wool production, and during the medieval period, the wool trade was so powerful that laws were written to protect it — with punishments as extreme as the death penalty for smuggling.

Merino sheep, first introduced to Australia in 1797, are now regarded as producing the finest commercial wool in the world. These sheep have been selectively bred over generations to maximise fleece yield and fibre quality — though, as we’ll see, that comes with trade-offs.

How Wool Is Made

Wool is harvested through shearing, typically once a year in spring or early summer. A single fleece is then classed based on factors like fibre diameter, length, crimp, and colour. High-quality fleeces are sent for scouring, a washing process that removes lanolin (wool grease), dirt, and vegetable matter.

From there, wool is carded and spun into yarn — either for woollen fabrics (from shorter fibres, soft and lofty) or worsted fabrics (from longer fibres, tightly spun, smoother, and more durable).

Why We Wear Wool

Wool’s properties are hard to match — especially for cold-weather garments.

Temperature regulating: Keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer

Moisture-wicking: Absorbs moisture better than cotton without feeling wet

Elasticity: Wool fibres stretch and recover, helping garments hold their shape

Biodegradable: Breaks down naturally at the end of its life

Odour-resistant: Naturally anti-bacterial

Low-maintenance: Resists creasing and sheds dirt easily

It’s one of the few fibres that can be felted, recycled, or composted, depending on how it’s treated.

Environmental Considerations

Wool is a natural and biodegradable fibre, which is a major advantage over synthetics like polyester, acrylic, or nylon. It doesn’t shed plastic microfibres in the wash, and it won’t linger in landfill for centuries after disposal.

However, wool is not impact-free. Large-scale sheep farming has environmental costs, including:

Greenhouse gas emissions: Sheep release methane, a potent greenhouse gas

Land use: Sheep farming requires significant pasture and arable land

Water and chemical use: Wool scouring and bleaching can be water- and energy-intensive

Land degradation: Overgrazing can lead to erosion and biodiversity loss

A recent comparison between Australian wool and cotton found that wool had a higher carbon footprint and land use impact per kilo — but fewer impacts in post-consumer waste and microplastic pollution.

The environmental story of wool, like many fibres, depends heavily on scale, farming practices, and supply chain transparency.

Animal Welfare

Wool production can be entirely humane — but not all wool is created equal.

In countries like Australia, some large-scale operations still use mulesing, a painful procedure intended to prevent flystrike, but one that has sparked widespread criticism. Fortunately, many producers are moving away from these practices, and certifications such as ZQ Merino and the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) aim to ensure higher welfare standards, including the ban of mulesing.

Still, these standards do not eliminate all concerns. As consumers, it's worth asking: Where does this wool come from? What standards does the supplier meet?

At the same time, it’s important to recognise that well-managed farms with small flocks and responsible shearing can and do exist — and they produce high-quality wool while caring deeply for animal welfare.

How to Care for Wool

Wool’s natural resilience means it doesn’t need to be washed often — but when you do, care is key:

Hand wash or use a gentle wool cycle

Use mild, wool-safe detergents

Avoid heat: Wool can shrink with hot water or tumble drying

Dry flat to maintain shape

Steam, don’t press, using a damp cloth to protect the surface

Tip: If you’ve ever accidentally shrunk a jumper to toddler size — you’re not alone.

So, Is Wool a Sustainable Choice?

Wool is a fibre with nuance. It has a complex backstory, a demanding production process, and a supply chain that isn’t always perfect.

But it’s also one of the few materials that checks key boxes: it’s natural, renewable, durable, repairable, breathable, and compostable. It performs exceptionally well in cold climates, and it requires less frequent washing and replacement than many other fibres.

When sourced from ethical, responsible producers — or purchased second-hand, vintage, or recycled — wool can absolutely be part of a conscious wardrobe.

It’s not a fibre we should use carelessly or excessively, but it’s certainly one we value for its longevity, performance, and history.