Viscose Fabric: What is it and how is it made?
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Time to read 9 min
If you've ever picked up a dressmaking pattern calling for a fabric with plenty of drape, there's a good chance viscose was on the suggested fabrics list. So, what is viscose fabric?
It's one of the most popular dressmaking fabrics around, loved for its soft handle, beautiful movement and ability to showcase colour and print exceptionally well. From floaty summer dresses to elegant blouses and wide-leg trousers, viscose has become a staple in many handmade wardrobes.
Despite being widely used, viscose can be a confusing fabric. Is it natural? Is it synthetic? Is it sustainable? And why does it behave so differently from cotton when you're sewing with it?
In this guide, we'll answer those questions and take a closer look at what viscose fabric is, how it's made and what makes it such a popular choice for garment sewing.
Table of Content
What Is Viscose? How Is Viscose Made? Viscose Dressmaking Fabrics Variations of Rayon and How They Compare Is Viscose Eco-Friendly? Why Sewists Love Viscose Viscose Dressmaking Fabrics Things to Consider Before Sewing With Viscose Tips for Sewing Viscose Fabric Products Featured In This Blog Frequently Asked Questions Related Readings
What Is Viscose?
Viscose, sometimes referred to as rayon or viscose rayon, is a semi-synthetic fibre. It starts with a natural raw material but goes through a manufacturing process before becoming fabric.
The raw material is cellulose, which is usually extracted from fast-growing trees such as beech, pine or eucalyptus. Once the cellulose has been turned into pulp, it is processed and spun into fibres. Those fibres are then woven or knitted into fabric.
Because it originates from plants, viscose isn't a fully synthetic fibre like polyester. At the same time, it isn't considered a completely natural fibre either because significant processing is required to create it.
You may also hear viscose described as a regenerated cellulose fibre. This simply means that plant material has been broken down and reformed into a new fibre.
Viscose was first developed as an alternative to silk and was originally marketed as "artificial silk" thanks to its soft feel and subtle sheen. While modern viscose comes in many different finishes, it still retains the qualities that made it popular in the first place.
Photograph taken by Truro Fabrics
How Is Viscose Made?
The traditional viscose manufacturing process involves several stages:
- Harvesting wood pulp from fast-growing plant sources
- Breaking down the cellulose using a chemical solution
- Forcing the resulting liquid through tiny holes called spinnerets to create filaments
- Solidifying the filaments and spinning them into yarn
- Weaving or knitting the yarn into fabric
It's a complex process that requires water, energy and careful management of chemicals.
Historically, viscose production has faced criticism because of its environmental impact. Poorly managed manufacturing can contribute to pollution, and unsustainable forestry practices can place pressure on natural ecosystems.
As a result, many manufacturers have worked to improve both sourcing and production methods in recent years!
Photograph taken by Truro Fabrics
Pros:
- Beautiful Drape and Movement: One of the biggest reasons sewists love viscose is the way it drapes. It skims the body beautifully and creates soft movement, making it a fantastic choice for dresses, blouses, skirts and wide-leg trousers.
- Soft and Comfortable to Wear: Viscose feels wonderfully smooth against the skin and is lightweight and breathable, making it particularly comfortable for everyday wear and warmer weather garments.
- Takes Colour and Print Exceptionally Well: Viscose absorbs dye brilliantly, resulting in rich colours and vibrant prints. Whether you prefer bold florals or subtle designs, patterns often look especially striking on viscose fabrics.
Cons:
- It Benefits From a Little Extra Care When Sewing: Viscose is softer and more fluid than fabrics like cotton, so it can feel slightly slippery when cutting and sewing. With a sharp needle, careful cutting and a bit of patience, most sewists quickly gain confidence working with it.
- Prewashing Is Important: Like many natural and semi-synthetic fibres, viscose can shrink slightly after washing. Giving your fabric a prewash before cutting helps ensure your finished garment keeps its intended fit.
Viscose Dressmaking Fabrics
Variations of Rayon and How They Compare
While the terms "viscose" and "rayon" are often used interchangeably, there are actually several types of regenerated cellulose fibre. Each has slightly different characteristics. What is viscose fabric and its variations?
Viscose
Traditional viscose is known for its fluid drape, soft handle and excellent ability to absorb dye.
It's often chosen for dresses, skirts and blouses where movement and softness are important.
Modal
Modal is made from beechwood pulp and is generally softer and more durable than standard viscose.
It wrinkles less easily and is often used in clothing that needs to withstand frequent washing.
Lyocell (Including TENCEL™)
Lyocell is known for its strength, breathability and smooth finish.
Many sewists love it because it combines beautiful drape with slightly more stability than traditional viscose. It's commonly used for dresses, shirts and lightweight trousers.
Lyocell is also widely regarded as one of the more environmentally responsible regenerated fibres because it is typically produced using closed-loop manufacturing systems that recover and reuse solvents.
Cupro
Cupro is produced from cotton linter, the fine fibres that surround cotton seeds.
It has a beautifully smooth surface, excellent breathability and a luxurious feel that makes it particularly popular for linings and lightweight garments.
Is Viscose Eco-Friendly?
Sustainability is one of the most common questions we hear about viscose. Part of the confusion comes from the fact that many people assume viscose is a synthetic, plastic-based fibre. It isn't! So what is viscose fabric then?
Viscose is made from plant-based cellulose, usually derived from wood pulp. Unlike polyester, nylon and acrylic, it is not made from petroleum and does not release plastic microfibres when washed. It is also generally biodegradable at the end of its life.
That doesn't automatically make all viscose sustainable, however. The main environmental concerns surrounding viscose relate to how it's produced. Traditional manufacturing methods can involve significant water use and chemical processing, while the sourcing of wood pulp can raise concerns if forests are not managed responsibly.
The good news is that many manufacturers have made substantial improvements in recent years. Fibres such as EcoVero™ and LENZING™ Viscose are produced using responsibly sourced cellulose and manufacturing systems designed to recover and reuse a large proportion of the processing chemicals.
It's also worth considering what alternatives you're comparing it to. If you're looking for a fabric with beautiful drape, a silky feel or a satin with a shiny finish, the alternatives are often polyester-based fabrics or silk. For sewists who prefer to avoid plastic-based fibres but also choose not to use animal-derived fabrics, viscose can be an excellent option!
So while the sustainability of viscose depends largely on how and where it's made, it's important not to confuse it with plastic-based synthetic fibres. As with many fabrics, the full picture is more nuanced than simply labelling it as either "good" or "bad".
Why Sewists Love Viscose
Viscose remains one of the most popular dressmaking fabrics for good reason. Some of its biggest strengths include:
- A soft, smooth feel against the skin
- Beautiful drape and movement
- Breathability and comfort in warmer weather
- Excellent colour depth and print clarity
- Versatility across a wide range of garment styles
If you've ever admired a floaty wrap dress, a swishy gathered skirt or a blouse with elegant movement, there's a good chance viscose played a part.
It's particularly well suited to patterns that rely on drape rather than structure.
Things to Consider Before Sewing With Viscose
As lovely as viscose can be to wear, it isn't always the easiest fabric to handle.
Many sewists find their first viscose project a little challenging, especially if they've previously worked mainly with stable cotton fabrics.
A few things to keep in mind:
- It can shift around while cutting
- It may stretch slightly during construction
- Most viscose fabrics shrink when washed
- It creases more readily than many other fibres
- The fabric becomes weaker when wet
None of these characteristics make viscose difficult to sew. They simply mean it benefits from a little extra care and preparation.
Sewing Patterns for Sewing Viscose Fabric
Tips for Sewing Viscose Fabric
Sewing with viscose becomes much easier once you're familiar with how it behaves.
A few practical tips can help:
- Prewash your fabric before cutting to account for shrinkage
- Use a sharp Microtex needle for clean, accurate stitches
- Consider using pattern weights and a rotary cutter when cutting
- Staystitch necklines and curved edges early to prevent stretching
- Handle pattern pieces gently during construction
Many sewists find that once they've completed their first viscose garment, they feel much more confident working with it in future.
The finished result is often worth the extra care.
How to Care for Viscose Fabric
To keep viscose garments looking their best:
- Wash on a cool, gentle cycle or hand wash where appropriate
- Avoid excessive agitation
- Dry flat or hang carefully to maintain shape
- Iron on the reverse side using a low to medium heat setting
- Always check the care instructions for your specific fabric
Modal, lyocell and cupro fabrics often benefit from similar care routines.
Conclusion
Viscose occupies an interesting space between natural and synthetic fibres. It offers the softness and breathability many sewists look for, while delivering the beautiful drape that makes handmade garments feel special to wear.
Understanding how it's made, how it behaves and how to work with it can help you get the best results from your sewing projects.
Whether you're planning a flowing dress, an everyday blouse or a pair of relaxed trousers, viscose remains one of the most versatile and rewarding fabrics to sew with.
The Author: Jade Mulholland
Jade is the Ecommerce and Marketing Manager at Truro Fabrics and holds a BA (Hons) in Textile Design for Fashion and Interiors. Having worked in fabric retail for more than 17 years, they have extensive experience helping customers choose fabrics for dressmaking, crafting and textile projects. Their particular interests include garment sewing, embroidery, fibre properties and fabric construction, with a passion for making textile knowledge accessible to sewists of all experience levels.
Products Featured In This Blog
Frequently Asked Questions
Is viscose a natural or synthetic fabric?
Viscose is considered a semi-synthetic fabric. It starts as a natural material, usually wood pulp, but undergoes a manufacturing process that transforms the cellulose into fibres that can be spun into fabric.
Is viscose fabric biodegradable?
Yes, viscose is generally biodegradable because it is made from plant-based cellulose. However, how quickly it breaks down depends on factors such as the manufacturing process, any fabric finishes that have been applied, and the conditions in which it is disposed of.
Does viscose fabric shrink?
Most viscose fabrics can shrink slightly when washed, which is why prewashing before cutting is always recommended. Following the care instructions for your fabric will help maintain the fit and appearance of your finished garment.
Is viscose fabric eco-friendly?
The sustainability of viscose depends largely on how it's produced. Traditional manufacturing methods can have environmental impacts, particularly if chemicals and forestry resources aren't managed responsibly. However, newer options such as EcoVero™ and LENZING™ Viscose are designed to reduce resource use and improve sustainability.
It's also worth remembering that viscose is made from plant-based cellulose rather than plastic. Unlike synthetic fibres such as polyester, viscose does not shed plastic microfibres during washing and is generally biodegradable at the end of its life. While the production process can be a concern, the fibre itself comes from a renewable natural source.
Is viscose fabric plastic?
No, viscose is not a plastic-based fabric. It is made from cellulose, a natural material derived from plants such as wood pulp. Although viscose goes through a manufacturing process before becoming fabric, the fibre itself is plant-based rather than petroleum-based. This means it differs from synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon and acrylic, which are made from plastics.
Related Readings
Viscose Fabric at a Glance
Viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre made from plant-based cellulose, usually sourced from wood pulp.
It isn't a plastic-based fabric like polyester, nylon or acrylic and does not release plastic microfibres during washing.
Known for its beautiful drape, softness and breathability, viscose is a popular choice for dresses, blouses, skirts and lightweight trousers.
Viscose takes dye exceptionally well, making it ideal for vibrant prints and rich colours.
While viscose is generally biodegradable, its environmental impact depends largely on how the fibre is produced and sourced.
Sewing with viscose can require a little extra care when cutting and handling, but the results are often well worth the effort.
For sewists looking for fluid, silky fabrics without using plastic-based fibres or animal-derived silk, viscose can be an excellent alternative.