5 Tips for Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Needle
|
|
Time to read 5 min
Introduction
We think sewing needles don’t get the love they deserve. Yes, they’re fiddly and easy to ignore (until they snap mid project…) but choosing the right needle for your project can make the world of difference.
💡 Did you know
The wrong needle can lead to skipped stitches, puckered fabric, broken threads, bad tension and swearing (usually mild, often not). Different fabrics and projects require different needles; and once you match the right needle to its fabric and thread friends, your machine will thank you with much smoother sewing and better results.
If you’ve ever gone cross-eyed staring at the wall of machine needles, this one’s for you. We’re here to break it down with these top tips for keeping your stitching on point. Download our cheat sheet to help choose the right needle every time!
Table of contents
How to choose the right sewing machine needle
Step 1: Match the needle to your fabric
This is the golden rule! A quick guide:
- Universal Needle – Ideal for most woven fabrics such as cotton poplin, linen, chambray and polycotton. This is often the best all-round choice for everyday sewing.
- Microtex Needle – Perfect for lightweight or tightly woven fabrics including viscose, lawn, voile, silk and satin. Its very sharp point creates precise stitches and helps prevent snags on delicate fabrics.
- Ballpoint Needle – Designed for knitted fabrics like jersey and interlock. Rather than piercing the fibres, it slips between the loops, reducing the risk of holes and laddering.
- Stretch Needle – Best for highly elastic fabrics such as Lycra, swimwear and activewear. These needles are specially designed to prevent skipped stitches on stretchy materials.
- Jeans or Denim Needle – Made for heavyweight fabrics including denim, canvas, twill and heavy cotton. Their stronger shaft helps them cope with dense fabrics without bending.
Not Sure Which Needle You'll Need?
If you enjoy sewing with a variety of fabrics, there's no need to buy every type of sewing machine needle separately. An assorted needle pack is a great way to build your sewing kit and means you'll always have the right needle to hand when starting a new project.
Our Schmetz Combi Needle Packs includes a selection of Universal, Microtex, Stretch, Denim and Topstitch needles in a range of popular sizes. Whether you're sewing cotton one week, viscose the next or tackling a pair of jeans, you'll have the right needle ready to go.
It's also an excellent choice if you're still getting to know which needles work best for different fabrics, giving you the opportunity to try each type without buying multiple packs.
Step 2: Choose the right needle size
Needles come in sizes listed 70/10, 80/12 or 90/12. The bigger the number, the bigger (thicker) the needle.
A quick rule of thumb would be:
- 70/10 – Fine fabrics including voile, lawn, chiffon and lightweight viscose.
- 80/12 – Medium-weight fabrics such as quilting cotton, cotton poplin and dressmaking cottons.
- 90/14 – Medium to heavyweight fabrics including denim, canvas and wool coatings.
- 100/16 and above – Heavy upholstery fabrics, multiple layers and specialist projects.
SCHMETZ Needle Anatomy
Schmetz Needles
SCHMETZ Needle Colour Marking
Schmetz Needles
Step 3: Change your needle regularly
This is one of the easiest ways to improve your sewing results.
Many sewists continue using the same needle until it breaks, but by that point it has often become blunt. A worn needle can cause:
- Skipped stitches
- Broken thread
- Uneven stitching
- Fabric puckering
- Damage to delicate fabrics
- Extra strain on your sewing machine
As a general rule, replace your sewing machine needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or after completing each project.
It's a small habit that can make a surprisingly big difference to the quality of your sewing.
Step 4: Think about your thread
Your thread is just as important as your fabric when choosing a needle.
A thicker thread needs a larger needle eye so it can pass through smoothly without excessive friction.
For example:
- Standard polyester or cotton sewing thread works well with a Universal needle.
- Heavy topstitching thread performs best with a Topstitch needle, which has a larger eye to accommodate thicker threads.
- Fine threads paired with lightweight fabrics often produce the best results with a Microtex needle.
If your thread keeps shredding or breaking, it's worth checking that your needle and thread are compatible before adjusting your machine settings.
Step 5: Invest in Quality Sewing Machine Needles
Not all sewing machine needles are made to the same standard.
Using high-quality needles helps produce more consistent stitches, reduces skipped stitches and can help protect your sewing machine from unnecessary wear.
We recommend Schmetz sewing machine needles because they're reliable, clearly labelled and available for almost every fabric type and sewing technique. Whether you're making everyday garments, sewing stretch fabrics or tackling heavy denim, there's a Schmetz needle designed for the job.
Final Thoughts
Whether you’re new to sewing or a seasoned maker, getting to know your needles is one of the simplest ways to improve your finish, reduce frustration and get the best out of your machine. Think of your sewing machine needle like your paintbrush - the better suited it is to the job, the smoother the result.
The Author: Jade Mulholland
Jade is the Ecommerce and Marketing Manager at Truro Fabrics and holds a BA (Hons) in Textile Design for Fashion and Interiors. Having worked in fabric retail for more than 17 years, they have extensive experience helping customers choose fabrics for dressmaking, crafting and textile projects. Their particular interests include garment sewing, embroidery, fibre properties and fabric construction, with a passion for making textile knowledge accessible to sewists of all experience levels.
How do I know which sewing machine needle to use?
The best sewing machine needle depends on the fabric you're sewing. Universal needles are suitable for most woven fabrics, while Microtex needles are ideal for fine or tightly woven fabrics, Ballpoint and Stretch needles are designed for knit fabrics, and Denim needles are made for heavyweight materials like jeans and canvas.
What do the numbers on sewing machine needles mean?
Sewing machine needles are labelled with two numbers, such as 80/12 or 90/14. The first is the European size and the second is the American size. The larger the number, the thicker and stronger the needle, making it suitable for heavier fabrics.
How often should I change my sewing machine needle?
As a general guide, you should replace your sewing machine needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing, or after completing each project. A fresh needle helps prevent skipped stitches, broken threads and damage to delicate fabrics.
Can I use a Universal needle for every fabric?
Universal needles are a great all-round choice for many woven fabrics, but they aren't suitable for every project. Stretch fabrics, delicate materials and heavy fabrics all benefit from specialist needles designed for their unique properties.
Why is my sewing machine skipping stitches?
Skipped stitches are often caused by using the wrong needle or a needle that has become worn or damaged. Before adjusting your machine settings, try replacing the needle and checking that it's the correct type and size for your fabric.
Do all sewing machine needles fit every sewing machine?
Most domestic sewing machines use the same flat-shank household sewing machine needles, including brands such as Brother, Janome, Singer, Bernina, Elna and Toyota. Always check your machine's manual if you're unsure, but the vast majority of home sewing machines are compatible with standard domestic needles such as Schmetz.
