Folkwear - PDF Sewing Pattern - 215 Empire Dress

The Folkwear 215 Empire Dress is a PDF sewing pattern for creating a classic high-waisted dress inspired by the Regency era. Available in Misses' sizes SM–3XL, this elegant design takes its inspiration from the Empire silhouette, which became popular following the French Revolution in the late 1700s.

Often known as the chemise gown, this style reflected a move towards simpler, classical Grecian-inspired clothing after the elaborate fashions of the European nobility. Its popularity peaked during the First Empire period (1799–1815), giving the Empire Dress its name. Traditionally worn in lengths ranging from floor length to knee length at the front, some versions also featured trains for day or evening wear until 1806. The high-waisted silhouette has remained a favourite in fashion ever since.

Folkwear offers three skirt lengths and two sleeve options. The narrow bodice gathers into a slim A-line skirt at the front and side panels, with a fuller gathered back. Choose a skirt that falls just below the knee, a full-length version or a full-length design with a train, ideal for weddings and formal occasions.

The traditional bodice uses drawstrings to create a close fit around the bust, tying at the centre back. For a more contemporary version, the designer suggests closing the back and using elastic instead of drawstrings. The short puffed sleeves can be cut very high or slightly longer, with both options reflecting authentic historical styles. The longer sleeves feature button and cord detailing.

Choose soft, lightweight or medium-weight fabrics with a suitable drape, such as cotton gauze, batiste, dotted Swiss, rayon challis, silk or very lightweight silk velvet. This versatile historical dress pattern is suitable for creating Regency-inspired clothing, reenactment costumes and contemporary occasionwear.

Yardage chart (.pdf)

Era: Regency, 1700s to early 1800s

The PDF pattern has instructions, and layered files for copy shop (36” and A0), projector, and print at home (A4 or 8.5”x11”).

Sewing Tip

Linda of Pine City, Minnesota, says this dress is popular with the Fur Trade reenactment crowd and she has made it several times. She says, "Some of us have a devil of a time putting together the little pieces that go around the armhole. The pattern markings are critical, and you should use tailor's tacks and position them carefully. I also suggest that you clearly mark the wrong side of each of the little pieces if your fabric's right and wrong sides are similar."