Birgitta Helmersson
Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Sewing Pattern - ZW Bell Jacket
Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Sewing Pattern - ZW Bell Jacket
The Birgitta Helmersson ZW Bell Jacket PDF Sewing Pattern combines modern outerwear design with innovative zero waste pattern cutting to create a stylish, fully lined jacket with virtually no fabric waste. Instead of printing large paper pattern sheets, you'll draft the pattern directly onto your fabric using the included cutting layouts and printable templates, making this an ideal project for sewists looking to embrace more sustainable sewing techniques.
The ZW Bell Jacket features a relaxed oversized silhouette with a rounded collar, front button fastening, three practical patch pockets and a beautiful inverted box pleat at the back neckline. Its distinctive bell-shaped sleeves are created with cleverly placed darts at the hem, providing volume while leaving plenty of room for layering throughout the colder months.
The pattern includes two size ranges with subtle design differences. Size Two features a more dropped shoulder and a two-panel centre back, while both sizes include guidance for further size adjustments using different fabric widths.
This pattern also includes embedded links throughout the instruction booklet, taking you directly to online tutorials with colour photographs for many of the construction techniques. You'll also receive two bonus hack options: an unlined quilted version and a shirt variation with a square collar, each accompanied by additional online tutorials.
As a digital sewing pattern, your files are available to download instantly after purchase. Unlike traditional PDF sewing patterns, there are no full-size pattern sheets to assemble. Instead, you'll receive a comprehensive instruction booklet, cutting layouts and printable templates, requiring just 11 A4 or US Letter pages to be printed before drafting the pattern directly onto your fabric.
Please note: This sewing pattern is licensed for personal and non-profit use only and may not be used for commercial production.
What is a Zero Waste Sewing Pattern?
Zero waste sewing patterns are designed to use almost every centimetre of your fabric, dramatically reducing fabric waste compared to traditional sewing patterns.
Rather than cutting around large printed paper pattern pieces, you'll draw the pattern directly onto your fabric using the included cutting diagrams and templates. This method not only saves paper, but also makes it easier to customise garment length, adapt to different fabric widths and even make use of leftover fabrics or patchworked remnants.
Birgitta Helmersson's innovative drafting method is ideal for anyone interested in sustainable sewing, mindful fabric use and learning new pattern cutting techniques.
PDF Pattern Includes
Instant PDF download
Instruction booklet
Zero waste cutting layouts
Printable cutting templates (11 A4 / US Letter pages)
Metric and imperial measurements
Home printer compatible
Suitable for viewing digitally or printing required templates only
Embedded links to online tutorials
Size Information
This oversized pattern is supplied in two inclusive size ranges. The maximum body measurements vary depending on the fabric width you choose. Instructions also include guidance for sizing up beyond these measurements.
Size One
145cm fabric: Bust up to 96cm | Hip up to 101cm
150cm fabric: Bust up to 101cm | Hip up to 108cm
155cm fabric: Bust up to 106cm | Hip up to 111cm
Size Two
145cm fabric: Bust up to 133cm | Hip up to 142cm
150cm fabric: Bust up to 138cm | Hip up to 147cm
155cm fabric: Bust up to 143cm | Hip up to 152cm
Suitable for hips up to approximately 152cm (60"), with further sizing guidance included in the instruction booklet.
Fabric Requirements
| Size | Outer Fabric | Lining |
|---|---|---|
| Size One | 130cm (51") | 120cm (47") |
| Size Two | 150cm (59") | 140cm (55") |
Recommended outer fabric width: 145–155cm (57–61")
Lining width depends on outer fabric width used:
- 145cm outer → 135cm lining
- 150cm outer → 140cm lining
- 155cm outer → 145cm lining
Yardage is intended as a guide and may vary if adjusting sleeve or body length.
Sewing Skill Level: Intermediate
Helpful Links + Tutorials
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The ZW Bell Jacket is designed for medium to heavyweight woven fabrics that provide structure while remaining comfortable to wear. Pair with a lining that has a little weight and a soft drape for the best finish.
- Wool coating
- Heavyweight denim
- Cotton drill
- Heavy cotton twill
- Suitable jacket linings with soft drape
The required lining width depends on the width of your outer fabric, so be sure to check the fabric requirements before purchasing your lining fabric.
To complete the ZW Bell Jacket you will need:
- Mid to heavyweight fusible interfacing
- Binding, 4cm (1½") wide, approximately 150cm (59")
- 4–5 buttons (approximately 20mm / ¾")
- Sewing machine
- Iron
- Fabric scissors
- Chalk or removable fabric marker
- Large right-angle ruler and/or long straight ruler
Note: Only the cutting templates need to be printed (11 A4 or US Letter pages). The pattern pieces are drafted directly onto your fabric using the included zero waste cutting layouts, helping to minimise both paper and fabric waste.

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