Birgitta Helmersson
Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Sewing Pattern - Zero Waste Coat
Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Sewing Pattern - Zero Waste Coat
The Birgitta Helmersson ZW Coat PDF Sewing Pattern combines timeless outerwear styling with innovative zero waste pattern cutting to create a versatile oversized coat with virtually no fabric waste. Instead of assembling large paper pattern sheets, you'll draft the pattern directly onto your fabric using the included cutting layouts and printable templates, making this an excellent choice for sewists looking to embrace sustainable sewing.
The ZW Coat is an oversized unisex design featuring batwing sleeves, a rounded collar and practical patch pockets. Choose between a shorter everyday coat with a front button fastening or a longer statement coat with a button front and waist tie. Although designed as an unlined garment, the instruction booklet also includes guidance for adding a lining if desired.
Because the coat is drafted crosswise, the finished garment length is determined by the width of your fabric, making it easy to customise the design. The pattern also includes detailed adjustment advice for sleeve length and overall fit.
As a digital sewing pattern, your files are available to download instantly after purchase. Unlike traditional PDF sewing patterns, there are no full-size pattern sheets to print and tape together. Instead, you'll receive a comprehensive instruction booklet, cutting layouts and printable templates, requiring just 13 A4 or US Letter pages to be printed before drafting the pattern directly onto your fabric.
Please note: This sewing pattern is licensed for personal and non-profit use only and may not be used for commercial production.
Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner
What is a Zero Waste Sewing Pattern?
Zero waste sewing patterns are designed to use almost every centimetre of your fabric, dramatically reducing fabric waste compared to traditional sewing patterns.
Rather than cutting around large printed paper pattern pieces, you'll draw the pattern directly onto your fabric using the included cutting diagrams and templates. This method not only saves paper, but also makes it easier to customise garment length, adapt to different fabric widths and make use of leftover fabrics or patchworked remnants.
Birgitta Helmersson's innovative drafting method is ideal for anyone interested in sustainable sewing, mindful fabric use and learning new pattern cutting techniques.
PDF Pattern Includes
Instant PDF download
Instruction booklet
Zero waste cutting layouts
Printable cutting templates (13 A4 / US Letter pages)
Metric and imperial measurements
Home printer compatible
Suitable for viewing digitally or printing required templates only
Size Information
This pattern is supplied in one oversized size range.
| Size | Body Measurements |
|---|---|
| Size One | EU 36–44 • Bust: 86–104cm • Waist: 66–84cm • Hip: 88–108cm |
Finished Garment Measurements
| Version | Length | Circumference | Sleeve Length | Bicep | Wrist |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Short Coat | 77cm | 185cm | 57cm | 42cm | 27cm |
| Long Coat | 118cm | 162cm | 57cm | 52cm | 37cm |
Please note: The coat is cut on the crosswise grain, meaning the width of your fabric determines the finished garment length. Detailed guidance for adjusting sleeve length and overall fit is included within the pattern.
Fabric Requirements
| Size | Recommended Fabric Width | Short Coat | Long Coat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Size One | 145–160cm (57–63") | 140cm (55½") | 200cm (78") |
Helpful Links + Tutorials
Explore other makes on insta #zwcoat
Tutorials
FINISHING SEAMS WITH BIAS TAPE / BINDING ON THE ZW COAT
ATTACHING THE COLLAR ON THE ZW COAT
FITTING NOTES AND SIMPLE HACKS FOR THE ZW COAT
ZW COAT HACK – REVERSIBLE QUILTED JACKET
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The ZW Coat is designed for medium to heavyweight woven fabrics that provide structure while allowing the oversized silhouette to drape beautifully.
- Wool coating
- Light to medium weight wool
- Cotton drill
- Heavy cotton twill
If using a lighter weight fabric, interfacing is recommended for the collar and front facings to provide additional structure.
To complete the ZW Coat you will need:
- 3 buttons (20–25mm / ¾–1")
- Approximately 25cm (10") fusible interfacing (optional for lighter weight fabrics)
- Approximately 3m (118") bias binding (optional for finishing internal seams)
- Elastic or cord (optional for the gathered short coat hack)
- Optional lining fabric if adding a lining
- Sewing machine
- Iron
- Fabric scissors
- Chalk or removable fabric marker
- Large right-angle ruler and/or long straight ruler
Note: Only the cutting templates need to be printed (13 A4 or US Letter pages). The pattern pieces are drafted directly onto your fabric using the included zero waste cutting layouts, helping to minimise both paper and fabric waste.

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